Sewing Stitches Used in Medieval Clothing

STITCH TYPE

DATED TO

LOCATION

ITEM

SOURCE

Braiding stitch

Danish bronze age

Thorsberg Mose, Denmark

Cloth fragment with oversewing in stitch resembling braiding stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 72

Button

Danish bronze age

Boremose, Denmark

Leather cape I; leather buttons made by winding a strip of leather round a wooden peg, like a toggle fastening

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 18

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Denmark (general)

Reference to skins and textiles

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 279

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Bredmose, Denmark

Coarse cloth. 2 seamed edges oversewn with buttonhole stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 28

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Aalestrup Bog, Denmark

Pieces of woven fabric sewn in buttonhole stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 44

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Fabric II. Fringed edge oversewn in buttonhole stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Hvilehøj, Denmark

Remains of fine cloth. Fragment with buttonhole stitch.

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 118

Couched cord

Danish bronze age

Denmark (general)

Reference to skins and textiles

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 279

Feather stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Checkered skirt

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 51

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Krogens Mølle Mose, Denmark

Hooded cape

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 15

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Roummose, Denmark

Sheep skin cape.

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 42

Hem Stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape C. Hem stitch in gut or sinew

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Cape sewn in hem stitch with skin thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape A. Sewn in hem stitch with gut or leather

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Hem stitch used for piecing

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Refstrup Hovedgaard, Denmark

Skin cape with hem stitched seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 56

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Fabric I. Borders single-turned and hem stitched

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Vester Torsted Mose, Denmark

Fragment of skin garment. Sewn with hem stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 66

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Vrangstrup, Denmark

Two cloth fragments III. Edge turned over and sewn in hem stitch with 2-ply sewing thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 96

Hemstitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skin cape. Sewn with hemstitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 52

Herringbone stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skirt

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 280

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Denmark (general)

Reference to skins and textiles

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 279

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape C. Overcast stitch in gut or sinew

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skin cape. Sewn with overcast stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 52

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Auning Mose, Denmark

Piece of cloth with overcast edges

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 54

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Refstrup Hovedgaard, Denmark

Skin cape with overcast seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 56

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Møgelmose, Denmark

Skin jacket with overcast stitches in leather thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 56

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Skin cape. Skins joined with overcast stitches

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Rønbjerg Mose, Denmark

Tunic sewn with overcast stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 66

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Vester Torsted Mose, Denmark

Fragment of skin garment. Sewn with overcast stitch; overcast stitch around cut out portion

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 66

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Krogens Mølle Mose, Denmark

Hooded cape

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 15

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Aardestrup, Denmark

Skin cape. Running stitched seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 33

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Roummose, Denmark

Sheep skin cape. Running stitched seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 42

Running Stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape C. Running stitch in gut or sinew

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Cape sewn in running stitch with skin thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Arden Mose, Denamrk

Fragment with running stitches

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 280

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Boremose, Denmark

Cape I. Running stitched neck hem

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 18

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Boremose, Denmark

Cape II. Running stitch seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 18

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape A. Sewn in running stitch with gut or leather

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Hem stitch used for piecing

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin remnants D and E. Pieces of skin sewn together with running stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skin cape. Sewn with running stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 52

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Skin cape. Skins joined with running stitches

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Twisted buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Osterbolle, Denmark

Fragment

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 280

Back stitch (probably)

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Decorative band sewn to body of hood with "regular" stitches

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Chain stitch

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Mend under chin – chain stitches in double thread, 5 per inch, at point of weakness, framing an area of darning

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Darning stitch(twill)

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Mending; stitching copies the twill weave in a heavier and darker yarn

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Hem stitch

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Raw edges of seam turned over twice and hemmed down on the outside; edges framing the face turned over twice onto the outside making a hem ½ inch wide; lower edge of the cloth turned outwards and hemmed to edge of decorative band; upper decorative band whipped to upper edge of lower band

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Overcast stitch

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Seam edges whipped together; woven decorative band ends whipped with deep stitches

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Patch or darn

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Mend under chin area in a different fabric, possibly darned in (check text again)

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Bound seam

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Catch stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary pouch

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 68

Hem stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Over stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary pouch

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 68

Overcast stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Ribbon folded lengthwise & stitched

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 369

Rolled hem

Viking Era?

York, England

Silk headdress, item #?

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Rolled hem (stitch type?)

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1332. Silk headdress

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 70

Rolled hem (stitch type?)

Viking Era?

York, England

5-7 Coppergate No. 651. Silk headdress

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 70

Running stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Running stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Ribbon folded lengthwise & stitched

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 369

Running stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary pouch

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 68

Upright hem stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Upright hem stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1263.

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 322

Whip stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Stuffed pleats stitched together across the top

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 355

2-ply self sewing yarn

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 87

Hem stitch

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 86

Rolled hem

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Running stitch

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Twice-turned hem

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Whip stitched cord

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Buttonhole stitch

Late 10^{th century}

^{Bjerringhøj, Denmark}

^{Ornamental band of silk and gold thread, edge sewn with buttonhole stitch in silk thread.}

^{Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 106}

^{Running stitch}

^{Late 10th c}

^{Hedeby (Haithabu)}

^{Seam treatment: seam stitched in running stitch; raw edges folded in toward each other and stitched together, as for a French seam}

^{Priest-Dorman, p. 9}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{Late 10th c}

^{Hedeby (Haithabu)}

^{Seam treatment: seam stitched in running stitch; raw edges folded in and overcast, as for a French seam}

^{Priest-Dorman, p. 9}

^{"Through" overcast stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 7}

^{Back stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt.}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 6}

^{Hem stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p.}

^{Running stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 7}

^{Whip (overcast) stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 6}

^{Back stitch}

^{General for middle ages}

^{London, England}

^{Used for seams under pressure. No certain evidence of it exists in London examples, but may have been used on bias-cut items such as hose.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{General for middle ages}

^{London, England}

^{Stitching holes on items indicate that in the majority of cases a fine line of running stitches was used for holding two edges of cloth together. Size of stitches vary in relation to fineness and flexibility of cloth. 2-3mm stitch length is usual, though 4mm stitches have been recorded.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 155}

^{Running stitch}

^{General for middle ages}

^{London, England}

^{Allowances of backstitched seams held down to either side with running stitches, about 2-3mm out from seam}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{13th century, Early}

^{London, England}

^{No 430. Woolen garment, hemmed with running stitches in linen thread. Side edge folded back 8-9mm & stitched 5-6mm from edge. Lower edge then folded to depth of 25mm resulting in a large hem allowance & also stitched 5-6mm in from edge}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 157}

^{Hem stitch}

^{Early 13th c}

^{London, England}

^{No. 197. Small offcut. Folded under 5mm then 9mm and hemstitched. Twice turned hem}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 157}

^{Hem stitch}

^{13th century, Early}

^{London, England}

^{No. 44. Probably hem of mantle. Finished depth 5mm held by hemming stitches at about 4mm intervals.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 157}

^{Type unsure, possibly overcast or buttonhole}

^{13th century, Last decade}

^{Southampton, England}

^{Silk fabric with eyelets, thread has disappeared, probably linen}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 167}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttoned sleeve with small cloth buttons and buttonholes, worked in silk}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 168}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttoned sleeve with small cloth buttons and buttonholes}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 168}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 34. 16 buttons}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 67. 25 buttons}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 38. Small cloth buttons}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Overcast stitch on applique}

^c.1350

^Sweden

^{Bockstenman’s hood, red v-shaped piece on front}

^{Nockert, M. Bockstensmannen, pp. 43, 55}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 233. Skirt section of garment. Evidence of single-thread gathers.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 178}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{Silk Cloth No. 331. Selvedge double-folded and hemmed}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 88}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in hemstitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 238. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in hemstitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Long overcast}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 395. Single fold edge 3mm wide, silk facing now missing. Buttons sewn on with long overcast stitches, the stalk then wrapped tightly.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169 (check the diagram to make sure)}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 219. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in running stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 243. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in running stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 244. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in running stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 171. Fragment of worsted cloth with series of parallel rows of running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 173}

^{Type unsure, possibly overcast or buttonhole}

^{14th century}

^{Kingston upon Hull, England}

^{Silk fabric with eyelets, thread has disappeared, probably linen}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 167}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 236. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 238. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 239. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 240. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 241. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 242. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Blanket stitch (buttonhole) stitch}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – neck opening blanket stitched at the corners}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 21}

^{French seam}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – seam with raw edges turned in toward each other and hemmed together}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 21}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – raw edges turned over twice to wrong side and hemmed before seam is sewn. French seam with raw edges turned in toward each other and sewn together. Neck opening hemmed on long sides}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 21}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – selvedges sewn together, seam edges with turned hems sewn together}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 18}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{Sleeve fragment from BC72. Single-turned hem folded back 4-5mm and held by backstitching in silk thread 2mm from edge.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 34. Possibly a sleeve fragemtn, hem folded back once and held by backstitching}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 156}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 159. Possibly a sleeve fragment, hem folded back once and held by backstitching}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 156}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttonhole edge of sleeve cuff. Buttonhole stitch worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. 12 buttonholes worked in silk}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182, 184}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. Button edge turned under 20mm-25mm, buttons attached to folded edge.}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182, 184}

^{Hem or oversewn}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 57. Facing attached to raw woolen edge. Facing of 9mm wide silk. Single turned, and hemmed or overstitched to raw edge of cloth. Inner edge of facing has a single-turned hem in hemstitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 160}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 78. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Lower edge of facing held down with small slanted hemstitches approx. 3-4mm apart}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 50. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Lower edge of facing held down with small slanted hemstitches approx. 3-4mm apart}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 78. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Edge turned under 3mm, covered with a 5mm whide strip of silk held firmly in place with 2 rows of tiny running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 50. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Edge turned under 3mm, covered with a 5mm wide strip of silk held firmly in place with 2 rows of tiny running stitches}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London,England}

^{No. 57. Facing attached to raw woolen edge. Row of tiny running stitches below hemmed edge to strengthen edge and hold facing flat.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 160}

^{Tablet-woven braid worked directly onto raw edge}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. Tablet-woven braid worked directly into raw edge of buttonhole side of cuff}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182, 184}

^{Tablet-woven braid woven directly into edge of fabric}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttonhole edge of sleeve cuff. Tablet woven braid worked directly into edge of cuff to strengthen the edge, as buttonholes finish only 2-3mm from opening}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Top stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. Wrist edge cut on straight and neatened with single top-stitched fold}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182,184}

^{Top stitching}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Possibly the top of hose, single hem with remains of topstitching in silk thread (backstitching?)}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Last quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 338. Silk lampas strip, tapered to point, folded in two and stitched down the center with running stitches in 2-ply thread, 8 stitches per 5mm}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 121}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Hose fragment. Top edge has single-fold hem top-stitched with backstithes.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 329. Strip 186mm long with 6 eyelets placed 22mm apart. Eyelets worked in silk 2-play thread, completed by 2 full circuits of buttonhole stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 164}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 246. Hood. Remains of 9 buttonholes under the chin, probably stitched with linen, as stitches are missing}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 190-191}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 216. 46 cloth buttons along a stretch 315 mm long.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 219. Fine tabby silk facing on garment. Held on by slanting hemstitches on both sides.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 216. Probable lower sleeve edge with silk tabby facing, held on by slanting hemstitches on both sides}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 386. Folded ribbon used as seam binding}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 383. Tabby silk binding on edge of a leather pouch.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 329. Strip 186mm long, 17-20mm wide. Narrow turning along edges. Companion strip of 16-22mm wide silk held in place by running stitches on 3 edges}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 164}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Hose fragment. Seam allowance on each piece turned out from seam and held down by tiny running stitches, worked from the outside, 2-3mm from the seam.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^Denmark

^{Golden gown of Queen Margareta. Seam allowances each turned out from the seam and held down by running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Running stitch or back stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Hose fragment. Seam stitched with either running or back stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Stitching (back stitching?)}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 329. Strip 186mm long, 17-20mm wide. Facins trip has 2 equally spaced lines of stitching extending the full length of the strip}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 164}

^{Tablet-weaving join}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 399. Silk lampas bag: piece of cloth folded double and made into a bag by working tablet-woven braid made with 30 tablets, along the 2 cut edges and around the opening.}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 114, 121}

^{Whip stitch rolled hem}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 333. Silk veil. Rolled hem with long diagonal hemstitching wrapped around the roll. Hem is less than 1mm deep with approx. 5-6 stitches per cm}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Whip stitch rolled hem}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 334. Silk veil. Rolled hem with long diagonal hemstitching wrapped around the roll. Hem is less than 1mm deep with approx. 5-6 stitches per cm}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Stitches general to the site}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 89}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 38.}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 103}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 39. Edges turned and backstitched down}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 104}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 42. Sleeve slit stitched with backstitch}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 113}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Woman’s gown No. 47. Backstitched seam}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 119}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Item No. 71. Hood. Face edge turned under sewn down with rows of backstitches}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 160}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 76. Hood. Front edge turned under and sewn with backstitches}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 162}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 78. Hood. Edges of hood turned under & sewn with 1 or 2 rows of backstitch}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 164}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 80. Hood. Front edge at face turned under, sewn w/2 rows of backstitch}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 167}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 67. Buttonhole stitch worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 32. Buttonhole strip worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 159. Buttonhole stitch worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 220. Small buttonhole stitches in loosely woven cloth with a silk facing}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 171}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 39. Edged eyelets}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 103}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 41. Glued fabric core, covered with fabric}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 108}

^{Cord sewn onto edge}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Item No. 61. Child’s frock. Bottom hem edged with cord sewn on with long darning-stitches passing backward and forward}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 127}

^{Cord whip stitched onto edge}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 42. Bottom hem edged with 2-ply cord sewn on with overcast. Pocket slits also edged with cord}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 113}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 72. Possibly from neck edge of cape or cloak.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 172}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 233. Strip with evidence of gathering}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 172}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 173. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 217. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 218. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 220. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 221. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 222. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 223. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 224. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 246. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 272. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 273. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 345. Strip of silk, 9-11mm wide, with narrow turning along its length. Stitch holes indicate it was hemmed in place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 175}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 346. Strip of silk, 13-44mm wide, with narrow turning along its length. Stitch holes indicate it was hemmed in place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 175}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 351. Two strips of velvet which appear to have been stitched originally to another fabric.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 176}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 44. Fragment from hem, possibly of a cloak. Double fold of approx. 5mm with slanting hemming stitches}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 182}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{Silk seal bag with hemming stitches around the perimeter. Fig 60. No.???}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 88}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Stitches general to the site}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 89}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 38.}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 103}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 39. Raw edges overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 104}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 42. Sleeve slit raw edge overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 113}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Woman’s gown No. 47. Raw edges of seams overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 119}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Child’s dress No. 48. Raw edges overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 119}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Item No. 71. Hood. Raw edge of face opening overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 160}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 76. Hood. Front edge raw edge overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 162}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No 78. Hood. Raw edges overcast}

^{Norlund P. Buried Norsemen, p. 164}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 80. Hood. Raw edge overcast}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 167}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 326. Silk fabric pieces joined by oversewing selvedge of one to folded edge of other with silk thead, and utilizing a starting knot}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 327. Silk fabric pieces joined by oversewing selvedge of one to folded edge of other with silk thread, and utilizing a starting knot}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Reverse chain stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Birka, Sweden}

^{A kind of reverse chain stitch used sometimes for joining pieces of fabric, sometimes for making free-standing figures; also called Ösenstich}

^{Geijer, A. Textile finds (Cloth & Clothing) p. 90}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 173. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 217. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 218. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 220. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 221. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 222. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 223. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 224. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 246. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 272. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 273. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), held by series of running-stitches along the length of the inner edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{Silk seal bag with rows of running stitches, fig 60. No.????}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 88}

^{Table woven braid worked directly onto raw edge}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 395. Sleeve opening. Tablet woven braid worked directly onto raw edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Tablet-woven braid woven directly into edge of fabric}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 67. Buttonhole strip finished with tablet woven edge in silk. Tablet woven braid worked directly into edge of cuff to strengthen the edge}

^{Crowfoot et at, p. 161}

^{Tablet-woven braid woven directly into edge of fabric}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 32. Buttonhole strip finished with tablet woven edge in silk. Tablet woven braid worked directly into edge of cuff to strengthen the edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Tablet-woven braid woven directly into edge of fabric}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 159. Buttonhole strip finished with tablet woven edge in silk. Tablet woven braid worked directly into edge of cuff to strengthen the edge}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Tablet-woven braid woven directly into edge of fabric}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 34. Buttonhole strip finished with tablet woven edge in cellulose fiber, probably linen.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{15th century}

^{Oslo, Norway.}

^{Twill fabric gathered with wool sewing thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 172 (citing Kjellberg, 1979)}

^{Back stitch}

^{16th century}

^{London, England}

^{Hose in London Museum: backstitched seam}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Catch stitch}

^{16th century}

^{Arnold, J. QEWU, p. 182}

^{Running stitch}

^{16th century}

^{Kilcommon Bog, Ireland}

^{Dress with pleated skirt}

^{Dunlevy, M. Dress in Ireland, p. 57}

^{Running stitch}

^{16th century}

^{London, England}

^{Hose in London Museum: allowances of backstitched seams held down to either side with running stitches, about 2-3mm out from seam}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{16th century}

^{London, England}

^{Hose fragment (as yet unpublished) Seam allowance each turned out from the seam and held down by running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Tacking stitch}

^{16th century}

^{Holding down trim}

^{Arnold, J. QEWU, p. 185}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{16th century}

^{London, England}

^{Reference to fragments of 16th foothose found in London. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Back stitch}

^{c. 1535-1560}

^{Spanish or English}

^{Youth’s red satin doublet. Panels of cotton wool padding between double rows of back stitching}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1535-1560}

^{Spanish or English}

^{Youth’s red satin doublet. Worked buttonholes in silk thread, 19mm(3/4") long, opening 13mm(1/2") long, with square ends}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1535-1560}

^{Spanish or English}

^{Youth’s red satin doublet. Eyelets in worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Hem stitch}

^c.1560

^{London, England}

^{Youth’s Leather Jerkin. ML 36.237. Leather band at bottom of jerking turned up 9mm(3/8") and hemmed; sleeve seam folded back on wrong side and hemstitched in place.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 68}

^{Cartridge pleats}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Tops of panes on trunkhose are cartridge-pleated}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Cord whip stitched onto edge}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Raw edge of velvet on trunkhose panes oversewn with gold metal thread}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Dart tucks}

^c.1562

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Black velvet bonnet of Don Garzia de’Medici. 39 evenly spaced dart-tucks in crown of hat}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 55}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Gown and pair of bodies worn by Eleanor of Toledo. Eyelets worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 102}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Eyelet holes worked in doublet in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Gathering stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Lining of trunkhose gathered to fit the leg measurement; ends of trunhose panes gathered into place}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Hem stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Raw edge of silk on panes on trunkhose turned under and held by running stitches in 2-ply silk}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Hem stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Gown and pair of bodies worn by Eleanor of Toledo. Slanted and upright hem stitching used.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 102}

^{Overcast stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Gown and pair of bodies worn by Eleanor of Toledo. Linen lining of bodies attached to velvet by overstitching}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 102}

^{Patching – oversewing}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Patch on left sleeve oversewn in place (overcast stitch?)}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Running stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Raw edge of silk on panes on trunkhose turned under and held by running stitches in 2-ply silk}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Stab stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Row of stab stitches down center front about 1.5mm (1/16") from edge}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 53-54}

^{Upright hem stitch}

¹⁵⁶²

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Gown and pair of bodies worn by Eleanor of Toledo. Slanted and upright hem stitching used}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 102}

^{Hem stitch or slip stitching?}

^c.1565-67

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Svante Sture. Hemstitching on sleeve cuffs and to hold trim on doublet}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 57}

^{Back stitch}

^c.1565-67

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Svante Sture. Plunderhosen. Double-layer linen lacing strip backstitched to waistline.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 57}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^c.1565-57

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Svante Sture. Plunderhosen. Worked eyelets in overcast stitch.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 57}

^{Back stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Joins in plunderhosen fabric backstitched}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Back stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Doublet. Linen lining backstitched in.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 68}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Erik Sture. 13mm (1/2") long buttonholes with square ends worked in silk.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 60}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Doublet. Buttonholes 19mm(3/4") long worked in silk}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 68}

^{Cartridge pleats}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Cartidge pleating on plunderhosen}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 62}

^{Catch stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Plunderhosen. Catch stitch used to hold turnings down}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Clipped seam}

¹⁵⁶⁷

^{Felt bonnet. Inside curve of brim clipped.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 93}

^Darts

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Darts around leg opening}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Edges daubed with wax}

^{c. 1567}

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Plunderhosen. Cut edges of velvet panes daubed with wax to prevent fraying.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Eyelets in plunderhosen waistband worked in overcast stitch in linen thread}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^Eyelets

^{c. 1567}

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Erik Sture. Worked eyelets along waist}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 60}

^{Gathering stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Erik Sture. Gathers on codpiece, sleeve cuff, leg panes}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 60}

^{Gathering stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Gathering stitches for cartridge pleating on plunderhosen; lining gathered}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 62}

^{Lapped seam}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Leather breeches of plunderhosen made with lapped seams}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Overcast stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Small area of oversewing in wine colored thread, possibly a tailor’s mark, in leg of plunderhosen}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Pad stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Doublet. Pad stitching in collar}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 68}

^{Running stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Running stitches in plunderhosen down sides of waist puff; in crotch seam; for joins in fabric}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Tack stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Cartridge pleats tacked to breeches of plunderhosen}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Thread-wrapped button}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Erik Sture. Button 9mm (3/8")diax8mm(3/16") deep worked in silk}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 60}

^{Top stitch}

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Erik Sture. Doublet waist is topstitched}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 60}

^Tucks

^c.1567

^{Uppsala, Sweden}

^{Suit of Nils Sture. Tucks in panes of plunderhosen}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 63}

^{Crossed buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^Germany

^{Semi-circular cloak with hood. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T2795. Hem left as raw edge, worked over in crossed buttonhole stitch in 2-ply brown wool.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 97}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^{German, early provenance unknown}

^{Doublet. Germansiches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg (Item#?) Eyelet holes around the armseye worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 109}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^Germany

^{Semi-circular cloak with hood. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T2795. Neckline gathered to fit bottom of hood.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 97}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^{German, early provenance unknown}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Binding strip on sleeve cuff is hemmed down.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 109}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^German

^{Velvet loose gown. Germanisches nationalmuseum, Nurnberg (Item#?) Hem stitch used on armhole facing, binding strip on shoulder of lining, collar lining; skirt hem is bound with a satin strip 13mm(1/2") finished with, concealing raw edges of linen and velvet, hem stitched in place}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 109}

^{Slip stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^Germany

^{Semi-circular cloak with hood. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T2795. Raw edges at neck concealed by strip of wool slip-stitched over them.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 97}

^{Slip stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^{German, early provenance unkown}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Doublet joined at shoulders with slip stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 109}

^{Tacking stitch}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^German

^{Velvet loose gown. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg (Item#?) Tacking stitches used to hold horsehair in position in sleeves}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 109}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1570-1580}

^German

^{Velvet loose gown. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg (Item#?) 19mm(3/4")dia and 13mm(1/2")high, of wood covered with black satin and white net mounted on 3mm(1/8") wide silk cord fastenings}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 109}

^{Back stitch}

^{c. 1574}

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Backstitching all around the collar and down both fronts 1.5mm (1/16") away from edge to hold down buttonhole reinforcing strip}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 55-56}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1574}

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Buttonholes with square ends worked in heavy silk similar to modern buttonhole twist}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 55-56}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^c.1574

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici.Eyelets worked in silk over copper rings in breeches waistband in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 55-56}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1574}

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Hemstitches used to catch silk to lining.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 55-56}

^{Running stitch}

^{c. 1574}

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Running stitches in silk thread holding down seam turnings in collar; running stitches in front neck seam turnings (turnings 5mm wide)}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 55-56}

^{Thread-wrapped button}

^{c. 1574}

^{Florence, Italy}

^{Suit of Cosimo I de’Medici. Button of thread wrapped over a wooden form, 7/8" dia, with a French knot on top}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 55-56}

^{Edging with wax}

^{c. 1575-1600}

^Germany

^{Silk hat. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T1220. Raw edges daubed with wax to prevent fraying.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 94}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{c. 1575-1600}

^Germany

^{Silk hat. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T1220. 4 circles of gathering stitches used to pull pleats of crown into shape}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 94}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{c. 1576-1600}

^Germany

^{Silk hat. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T1220. Hatband stitched on in upright hem stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 94}

^Buttons

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg (Item #?) Buttons 13mm?81/2")dia x 8mm(5/16") high, of knotted cotton, worked over tightly packed rag or wooden foundations, covered with black velvet and a cover of knotted black silk thread worked over the top}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Back stitch}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Line of backstsing, 3mm(1/8") away from edge on both fronts.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Clipped seam}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Sleeve roll edges clipped and darted to fit}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^Dart

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Sleeve roll edges clipped and darted to fit}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) eyelets on front worked in overcast stitch in silk thread.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?). Eyelet band in armhole stitched with hem stitches; seams of the side back lining are hemmed down; narrow tape over seam joining doublet to skirt held with hem stitches}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Overstitching on sleeve cap – may be only decorative}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Felt layer on doublet skirts is pad stitched; layer of felt pad stitched onto linen in collar}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Running stitch}

^{c. 1585}

^{Possibly German}

^{Doublet. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg (Item#?) Lines of stitching, probably running stitches, to hold whalebones; lining of skirt stitched in what looks like running stitches}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 107}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

¹⁵⁸⁹

^German

^{Corset. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich. Worked eyelets at bottoms of busk channel; up back opening; along waistline. All worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 113}

^{Overcast stitch}

¹⁵⁸⁹

^German

^{Corset. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich. Raw edges of silk interlining and lining overhanded together; side seam overhanded}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 113}

^{Stab stitch}

¹⁵⁸⁹

^German

^{Corset. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich. Tabs originally held on with stab stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 113}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1595-1605}

^Netherlands

^{Youth’s doublet. Eyelets worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 72}

^{Worked buttons}

^c.1595-1605

^Netherlands

^{Youth’s doublet. Buttons of silver thread (silver strip over a silk core), worked over a wooden base}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 72}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1595-1610}

^{Probably Italian, now in Florence, Italy}

^{Doublet. Lacing strip at waist with eyelets in overcast stitch. Eyelets down both sides of center front opening, in overcast stitch.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 72}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1595-1610}

^{Probably Italian, now in Florence, Italy}

^{Doublet. Buttons of gold thread in basket-weave design, stitched between eyelet holed for decoration}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 72}

^{Cartridge pleats}

¹⁵⁹⁸

^German

^{Velvet gown. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich. Skirt cartridge pleated at waist.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 113}

^{Gathering stitch}

¹⁵⁹⁸

^German

^{Velvet gown. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich. Gathers in sleeves.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 113}

^{Gathering stitch}

¹⁶⁰⁰

^{Detmold, Germany}

^{Dress of Grafin Katharina zur Lippe. Gathers in skirt}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 105}

^Buttons

¹⁶⁰⁰

^{Detmold, Germany}

^{Dress of Grafin Katharina zur Lippe. Buttons 9mm(3/8") x 9mm(3/8") of gold thread worked over a wooden foundation}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 105}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1600-1605}

^{Probably English}

^{Doublet. Worked buttonholes}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 74}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1600-1605}

^{Probably English}

^{Doublet. Eyelets worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 74}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1600-1605}

^{Probably English}

^{Doublet. Pad stitching in collar}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 74}

^{Running stitch}

^{c. 1600-1605}

^{Probably English}

^{Doublet. Bombast held in place with long running stitches}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 74}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1600-1605}

^{Probably English}

^{Doublet. Buttons missing, but probably silk and gold metal thread worked over a wooden base}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 74}

^{Back stitch}

^{c. 1600-1610}

^{Stockholm, Sweden}

^{Girl’s loose gown. Joins in fabric and seams sewn with black linen thread, mostly with backstitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 101-102}

^{Clipped seam}

^{c. 1600-1610}

^Germany

^{Velvet hat. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T33. Inside curve of hat brim is clipped}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 94}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{c. 1600-1610}

^Germany

^{Velvet hat. Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nurnberg T33. 3 rows of gathering stitches to pull hat crown into shape}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 94}

^{Overcast stitch}

^1600-1610

^Germany

^{Pair of sleeves. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg, T2858/T2859. Overhand stitch on front seam}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 117}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1600-1610}

^{Darbyshire, England}

^{Loose gown. Linen interlining of collar pad stitched to sating collar.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 98}

^{Running stitch}

^{c. 1600-1610}

^{Stockholm, Sweden}

^{Girl’s loose gown. Hem 6mm(1/4") wide held with small even running stitches 3mm(1/8") long.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, pp. 101-102}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1600-1620}

^Germany

^{Semi-circular cloak. Germanisches Nationalmuseum. Nurnberg T812. Raw edges of collar are turned in and the top of the collar is hemmed to the underside of the collar.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 95}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^Germany

^{Green satin doublet. Buttonholes 22mm(7/8") long, square ends, worked in green silk}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 78}

^{Cartridge pleats}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^{Aylesbury, England}

^{Loose gown of Sir Ralph Vernay. Back gathered into cartridge pleats}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 98}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^Germany

^{Green satin doublet. Eyelets worked in overcast stitch in green silk at bottom front of peascod belly}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 78}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^{Aylesbury, England}

^{Loose gown of Sir Ralph Vernay. Back gathered into cartridge pleats}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 98}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^Germany

^{Green satin doublet. Cotton wool padding stitched into position}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 78}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^Germany

^{Green satin doublet. Thread-wrapped buttons 13mm(1/2")diax13mm(1/2")high; tapered towards top; hollow centers, with green cord pulled through, and shanks worked in linen thread}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 78}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1605-1615}

^{Aylesbury, England}

^{Loose gown of Sir Ralph Vernay. Acorn type buttons are 13mm(1/2") deep and 13mm(1/2")dia. Silver, gold and purple threads worked over wooden bases}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 98}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^{Provenance unknown, now in Germany}

^{Padded doublet. Buttonholes 13mm(1/2") long in silk thread similar to modern buttonhole twist.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 80}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^Germany

^{Youth’s doublet. Buttonholes 16mm(5/8") long in green silk without bars at ends}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 82}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^{Hessisches Museum, Darmstadt, Germany, provenance unkown}

^{Satin doublet. Worked buttonholes}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^Eyelet

^{c. 1610}

^{Provenance unknown, now in Germany}

^{Padded doublet. Eyelets in overcast stitch, worked in linen thread over a doubled linen thread to make a firm edge.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 80}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^c.1610

^{Hessisches Museum, Darmstadt, Germany, provenance unknown}

^{Satin doublet. Eyelets worked in overcast stitch on a band stitched inside the waist.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^{Provenance unknown, now in Germany}

^{Padded doublet. Raw edges of sleeve material turned in and hemmed}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 80}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^Germany

^{Youth’s doublet. Back piece is hemmed down over the lining}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p.82}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^{Provenance unknown, now in Germany}

^{Padded doublet. Collar interlining pad stitched together}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 80}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^{Hessisches Museum, Darmstadt, Germany, provenance unknown}

^{Satin doublet. Belly piece made of several layers pad stitched together; collar interfacing made of layers of linen padstitched together; pad stitching in upper shoulder}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{Slip stitch}

^{c. 1610}

^{Hessisches Museum, Darmstadt,Germany, provenance unknown}

^{Satin doublet. Belly piece edge bound with silk taffeta, which is slip-stitched onto lining}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1610}

^{Provenance unknown, now in Germany}

^{Padded doublet. Buttons of a wooden foundation, 6mm(1/4")deep x 6mm(1/4")dia, worked with 2 yellow silk threads, bordered by a blue thread on each side, in basketweave pattern. Sewn on with 5mm(3/16") linen thread shanks}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 80}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1610}

^Germany

^{Youth’s doublet. Buttons 10mm(3/8")dia x 5mm(3/16") high, wooden bases worked over with green silk & silver gilt thread with a knot on top. Some buttons sewn on with silk, some with linen}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 82}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1610-1615}

^{Loose gown. Victoria and Albert Museum 189.1900. Eyelets in back of collar for suportasse or ruff, in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 118}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1610-1615}

^{Loose gown. Victoria and Albert Museum 189.1900. Pad stitches in foundation yoke.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 118}

^{Back stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Suit of doublet and trunkhose. Appliqued leather motifs outlined with tiny backstitches}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Worked buttonholes, 16mm(5/8") long, with round ends at center front, square at the other end (keyhole style)}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Cartridge pleats}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^Dutch

^{Embroidered skirt or petticoat. Nationalmuseet, Copenhagen. Originally cartridge pleated}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 116}

^Darts

^{c. 1610-1620}

^England

^{Young girl’s loose gown. Victoria and Albert Museum (Item #?) Darts to fit yoke.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 120}

^Darts

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Trunkhose. Leg openings shaped with darts}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1610-1620}

^England

^{Girl’s loose gown. Victoria and Albert Museum 178.1900. Eyelets in back of collar worked in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 122}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1615-1618}

^Scotland

^{White linen embroidered jacket. Burrell Collection, Glasgow. Hem stitching on sleeve cuff.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 120}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Trunkhose. Leg band of leather over a linen base, with 34 worked eyelets in overcast stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^England

^{Ivory silk doublet. Eyelet holes worked in overcast stitch in the front skirt tabs, worked in silk thread}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{French tacks}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^England

^{Ivory silk doublet. Raw edges of silk on collar, front and back and shoulders turned under and caught with French tacks}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{Gather stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Trunkhose. Lining gathered at the waist.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Hem stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^England

^{Ivory silk doublet. Skirt silk pieces mounted on linen canvas, and lining of skirts hemmed down to them}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{c. 1610-1620}

^England

^{Young girl’s loose gown. Victoria and Albert Museum (Item#?) Raw edges at armholes oversewn together.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 120}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1610-1620}

^England

^{Girl’s loose gown. Victoria and Albert Museum 178.1900. Pad stitches in foundation yoke.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 122}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Doublet. Supportasse attached to collar, made of several layers of linen pad stitched together}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^England

^{Ivory silk doublet. Strip of linen pad stitched down both fronts for extra stiffness beneath buttons & buttonholes; woolen cloth pad stitched over shoulder}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 84}

^{Running stitch}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Points on doublet of satin, edges turned under 1.5mm(1/16") and held with running stitch}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^Dutch

^{Embroidered skirt or petticoat. Nationalmuseet, Copenhagen. ‘Corn’ button, 6mm tall, 5mm wide, wooden core worked with colored threads}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 116}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1615-1620}

^{Italy, early provenance unknown}

^{Thread-wrapped buttons, 6mm(1/4") high by 6mm(1/4") dia.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 90}

^{Eyelets – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1615-1625}

^{Munich, Germany. Early provenance unkown}

^{Orange satin doublet. Eyelet holes worked in overcast stitch in skirts}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 86}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1615-1625}

^{Munich, Germany. Early provenance unkown}

^{Orange satin doublet. 22 buttonholes 16mm(5/8") long with square ends in silk thread}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 86}

^{Top stitch}

^{c. 1615-1625}

^{Munich, Germany. Early provenance unkown}

^{Orange satin doublet. Back shoulder seam is top-stitched over the front; shoulder wing is top-stitched to the sleeve; left back of doublet is topstitched over the right at center back}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 86}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1618}

^England

^{Suit of Sir Richard (?) Cotton. Doublet. Worked buttonholes}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 88}

^{Cartridge pleats}

^{c. 1618}

^England

^{Suit of Sir Richard (?) Cotton. Trunkhose. Leg ends of trunkhose gathered in to cartridge pleats and stitched to the canvas}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 88}

^{Eyelet – overcast stitch}

^{c. 1618}

^England

^{Suit of Sir Richard (?) Cotton. Doublet. Eyelets worked in overcast stitch in front tabs; waistline eyelet strip with eyelets worked in overcast stitch in silk thread}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 88}

^{Pad stitch}

^{c. 1618}

^England

^{Suit of Sir Richard (?) Cotton. Doublet. Belly piece of 4 layers of stiff linen canvas pad stitched together; collar is 3 layers of heavy linen pad stitched together; wool padding pad stitched into position}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 88}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1618}

^England

^{Suit of Sir Richard (?) Cotton. Doublet. Buttons of hollow wooden base, sewn on with long linen thread shank. Alternate threads of fine gold & silver twisted around the wooden base. Finished with a little twist of gold at top}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 88}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1620}

^{Spanish or Italian}

^{Green silk jerkin. Buttonholes 22mm(7/8") long worked 3mm(1/8") in from edge in thread matching the wrapped buttons}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{c. 1620}

^{Spanish or Italian}

^{Green silk jerkin. Doublet pieces joined with overcast seams; skirt tabs joined to doublet with overcast stitches.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Tack stitch}

^{c. 1620}

^{Spanish or Italian}

^{Green silk jerkin. Silk pieces mounted on linen canvas, raw edges folded over and tacked down; same for skirt tabs}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Worked buttons}

^{c. 1620}

^{Spanish or Italian}

^{Green silk jerkin. Buttons are 11mm(7/16")dia worked in silk over wooden bases}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 70}

^{Cartridge pleats}

¹⁶³⁹

^{Laningen, Germany}

^{Velvet gown. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich. Skirt held at waist with cartridge pleats.}

^{Arnold, Patterns, p. 116}