Woman's Wood-heel Pump, Silk, Stuff or any wove Upper.
The bottom stuff is to be fitted the same as in the leather pump. The heels to be cut the same, and the rounding of the sole.
But in lasting the upper you must be more careful than in that of the leather; for, if you do not have the lasting tacks on each side in a direct line from the top of the quarters at the heel seam, and along the side seam, with the threads of the vamp to the lasting tack, as from A. to B. in fig. 1st, and so on as directed in the man’s shoe, you are not to expect to have the upper smooth.
The sewing thread must he made in proportion to the work, and the bristles must be pointed; otherwise you will not be able to get them through the upper.
Likewise the thread should be kept the same as directed in the leather work; though it does not require so much wax.—When you have sewed, cut off the spare lining and side lining that are above the stitch; but mind not to cut off the spare lining that is above the stitch, but wax it down to the sole.—From this you are to proceed as directed in the leather pump, till you come to the heel rand.
The heel rand has in general a linen lining; but to silk, thin white sheep-skin is best.
Damp the linen lining with your tongue towards the upper part of it, that it may close to the small of the heel, and put the heel on your Left knee, with the hind part towards you; then put the lining over it, and with the fingers and thumb of both hands work it well round the heel, and take the heel and rand tip between the fingers and thumb of your left hand, and mark the rand round the edge of the seat with some colouring, and mark the middle behind at the seat, and likewise at the small of the heel, and at both sides, where the threads from the small of the heel run down to the seat.
Now take the lining off the heel, and cut off that end which you are to begin to sew with close to the mark, which is the right side.
In fastening the lining to the heel rand, some make use of paste, and others of wax; and I think that, for stuff, the wrong side of the rand slightly waxed is best, and paste for every other kind of wove rands.
In laying the lining on the rand, some will put a plait or fold at the top piece part of the lining, for to strain the rand sufficiently close round the small of the heel, when it is in; but I would have you to lay the lining flat on the rand, and strain it at the shank ends on each side, that it may lie smooth on the rand.
Then put them on the seat, and sit on them while you are second lasting the pump, that they may stick firm together.
When sewing the heel rand, mind to sew in the mark that is made on the lining, except within two or three stitches of the mark that is made in the direction of the threads that come round the small of the heel, on each side; let the hold be there about a quarter of an inch below the mark; and two or three stitches after you have passed that mark, as well as before you come to it; and the same on each side.
This mode will answer better than a plait or fold in the linings as it will strain the heel rand enough in the small of the heel, and will be quite free at the top piece; but in the mode of the plait or fold, it will cause the heel rand to strain too much at. the top piece, which will be found very unpleasant in a middling or low heel.
And while sewing, you are not to pare any off the stitch as in leather, but to lay the whole down smooth with the hammer of the pincers; and if the heel be middling high, you may sew to the heel seam before you begin to hammer the seam down; but in a low heel rand it must be done sooner and oftener.
After you have sewed the rand, and before you put in the heel, put in a thin leather slide full as wide as the seat of the heel, for to cover the spare rand, lining, and stitches, to prevent any of them to rise up against the edge of the seat of the heel when putting of it in.
If it be a stuff rand and waxed, put a little paste lightly between the rand and lining, that they may slip by each other with more ease, when lasting the heel rand; and before the heel is put in, put a little paste over it.
Now put the heel in, and let the seat of the heel cover the sewing stitches equally all found the seat of the pump. Then take out the slide, and secure the heel in front with a tack; then place the pump on your knees under the strap, and draw up the lining over the top piece, and see that it is smooth all over the heel, and then the heel rand in the same manner.
Now you have the rand over the top piece, Ian it in front of the heel, but first let it be well lasted in the small, as there is the principal part of the lasting in all kind of wove heel rands. All the rest is the same as directed in the last article, till you come to stitching.
Then for stuff and velvet you must make use of covered stitch; that is, you must stitch with one thread, and that thread when drawn in from the sole side must come through the stuff or velvet rand, but when drawn out at the sole side, must go over the rand, and so alternately through the whole of the stitching.—.But should the heel rand be silk, jean, or nankeen, you may fair stitch them the same as leather, and finish the whole of the work the same as if it were leather.
The over stitch work must be covered by the shanks and top piece, and the form of the shanks is to be the same as in stitch work, without any alteration except that of covering the stitch.
I suppose that the reason is evident for making use of a covered stitch in stuff and velvet heel rands, on inspection: for in the first you can’t rise a regular hold; and the threads are liable to fret by the friction of the stuff; and in the velvet the stitch will be buried in its plush.
But in silk, jean, or nankeen, you may use fair or covered stitch.
The rest of the work is to be finished the same
as directed in the last article.
Woman's Shoe, Leather, Silk, &c.